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If you were to ask Chuan Leekpai the affable ex-Prime Minister of
Thailand where he was born, he might choose to say simply "a small town in
the south" - because few foreigners are likely to have heard of his
picturesque birthplace in Trang - far less know where it is.
Indeed, relatively small numbers of Thai people can claim to have
visited this splendidly scenic part of their own land, and if it is
amazingly well endowed with natural beauty, its other great asset is being
one of Thailand's little-known tourist secrets. Whilst an average of one
plane every few minutes uses Phuket's busy runway, Trang's tranquil
airport (opened in 1999) welcomes just a handful of flights a day, with
the few overseas visitors on board generously outnumbered by Thai
businessmen and local citizens. At the nearby seaport of Kantang, the
charming 19th century train station marks the terminal of the Southwestern
Thai railway, adding to the comforting end-of-the line feeling in this
lovely part of the Kingdom, with the noise and pollution of Bangkok some
830 kilometres and 15 hours up the track.
Given that it boasts as many lovely sights as Phuket, yet is free of
high rise beach hotels, Trang is an ideal retreat for people who seek a
holiday in a relatively undiscovered place, untrampled and untrammelled by
fellow-vacationers. Here, lazy beach lounging and stunning sightseeing
attractions can be enjoyed without the standard recipe that tends to
define and often defile tourist resorts everywhere, and since over two
thirds of the province has been designated as national parkland,
thoughtful ecological considerations are likely to shape future
development.
Pronounced Dtrang with a hard consonant, the small and
cute capital of around 65,000 folks gives its name to the province of
approximately 5,200 square kilometres, and a relatively low population
density of some 600,000 friendly inhabitants, whose motto translates as
"Helping Hands and Open Minds." As is often the case, the origin of the
name is disputed. Many attribute it to Bahasa Malaysia word
terang meaning "there is light" a somewhat unconvincing
reference to Malaysian merchant sailors supposedly with a preference of
arriving here at dawn. There are several other theories put forward by
competing pundits, but correct or otherwise, the most fitting would seem
to be the local symbol - the sri-trang flower, whose pale
violet blossoms in season are pleasantly ubiquitous everywhere.
What to do
Trang's tourism treasures combine several chests of jewels. The
topography delineates three general regions, with relatively flat coastal
areas in the south rising through an undulating central section,
punctuated by distinctive and striking limestone outcrops. The northern
area is mostly mountainous with rolling hills, tropical rain forests and
verdant valleys. The 120-kilometre stretch of alluring coastline protects
some of Thailand's most beautiful and least visited beaches. Dozens of
tropical islands, many of them uninhabited, beckon offshore. Inland,
densely forested hillsides and protected National Parks conceal
spectacular limestone caves and rushing waterfalls. Naturalists and nature
lovers will thrill at the endlessly changing panoramas that unfold as you
explore, either by vehicle, bicycle, or on foot. The sanctuaries on land
and at sea are home to many varieties of interesting wildlife, including a
large number of bird species, land mammals, and marine creatures,
including the endangered Dugong or Sea Cow. There are
excellent prospects for trekking, mountain biking, cave explorations,
nature study tours, and rock climbing activities on land, plus diving and
canoeing opportunities along the coast, and on the islands. For those who
simply want to rest, Trang offers the ultimate in relaxation amongst some
of the most idyllic scenery in Asia.
What to see
Around the town
A tour of Trang city centre provides a pleasant prelude to the
temptations of the province. Compact, and compatible with pedestrian
explorations, the simple street layout has a nucleus around the central
Clock Tower, and the road leading from it up to the railway station. A
hired bicycle will take you further afield, plus strengthen leg muscles,
since the terrain is undulating in a series of "khuans" - small hills,
which more than one travel writer has remarked are somewhat reminiscent of
San Francisco. Many street names are prefixed by "khuan" and the imposing
colonial-style Governor's House sits handsomely atop one of them,
rewarding the Governor and the visitor with splendid panoramic views. If
pedalling does not appeal, the unusual (said to be the only ones in
Thailand) snub-nosed puce-coloured "tuk-tuks" will take you anywhere in
town for a modest sum.
With relatively few foreign visitors, the shops are pleasantly
uncluttered with the predictable graffiti that advertises tourism
services, and a meander amongst the many merchants selling all manner of
wares, from the mundane to the mysterious, still instills the promise of
discovery. The town has a distinct Chinese flavour, with roots in Teochew
speaking immigrants who arrived here to successfully exploit rubber
cultivation following the introduction of the first seedlings from
Malaysia in 1899. The large number of Chinese temples attests to this
influence, as do the numerous caf?s, which provide stimulation, sustenance
and sociability for the populace. Even those with no inclination for
caffeine will find fascination in these mainly Hokkien-run raan
kopii, which produce a dark, pulse-quickening brew of
kafae thoong ("bag coffee") routinely reinforced with a
bottom layer of sweetened condensed milk. This hearty beverage, much
favoured by locals, is created (usually with some ceremonial dexterity)
using a grimy-looking cloth strainer, and served in a small glass. Many of
these establishments are interesting in themselves, often decorated with
aging sepia photographs, and characterised by senior citizens. Cool
marble-topped tables predominate, each one sporting a self-service plate
of tasty local snacks, including pa thongko
(Chinese doughnuts) a variety of dim sum, and numerous other goodies, all
definitely worth a try.
The city's colourful main markets are worth visiting, especially in the
early morning, and the two municipal parks are excellent venues for
relaxation and local people-spotting. Numerous examples of Sino-Portuguese
architecture, and a languid, laid back local flavour enhance the overall
impression that Trang is a lovely little place to be. For the first-time
traveller with an itinerary including the national parks, the beaches and
the tropical islands, it also gives a warm feeling of anticipation that,
quite correctly, the best bits are still to come.
The short 26 kilometre journey to the port of Kantang (going by train
if you desire) brings you to Trang's historical foundations. The original
town was located here at the mouth of the Trang River until 1915, when it
was decided to move it inland to a village called Tab-Tieng, which remains
a synonym for Trang today. It was this former location which established
Trang as an important trading post between India and China, with
merchandise crossing overland to and from Thai ports in the South China
Sea, cutting out both the long circuitous sea journey via Singapore - and
the pirates which proliferated at that time.
Wildlife Sanctuaries & National Parks
As aforementioned, large areas of Trang province have been designated
National Parks and these encompass inland forests, mainland beaches, and
offshore islands. The main Parks inland include Khao Pu/Khao
Ya which borders Pattalung province and covers almost 700 sq. km
of forested mountain terrain, home to tumbling waterfalls, deep caves, and
abundant wildlife, including several rare birds. A more accessible
sanctuary for birds is the Khlong Lamchan Waterfowl
Preserve, 17 Km east of town, a marshy area with many species of
migratory and resident species of waterfowl. The large inland "two roomed"
lake of Thalehsap Song Hong northwest of the town derives
its name from the cliff, which from some perspectives, appears to divide
the body of water into two separate sections. Two parks contain their own
small zoos - Khao Chong Wildlife Centre, 19 kms east of
town, and Jed Yod (seven peak) Park
which is off the main road, travelling north. The former has marked
walking trails, and boasts a small museum. The latter is dotted with
limestone caves. Two major marine National Parks cover a huge area of
beaches, and offshore islands. The principal park of Chao
Mai, takes in 19 km of coastal beaches and mangroves as well as
nine islands. The Koh Petra Park is centred on Petra
Island as the name suggests, and includes several others, notably
Kasingh a nd Lindi.
The Beaches
Among the many mainland beaches are Pakmeng, Changlang Beach (location of the Amari Trang Resort) Had
Yao, Yongling Beach, Haad San, and Chaomai Beach. These superb combinations
of sea and sand, like the islands, all have their own separate
a >
ppeal and local character, and each one is worth
a visit.
The Islands
Hedonists and aspiring castaways could spend
months of exquisite explorations amongst the four dozen or so jewels here,
some uninhabited, some with simple accommodation, each one different, each
one endowed with mind-stunning scenery, and as yet all relatively
pristine. Some are served by regular ferry services such as those
mentioned below, others are splendidly isolated, and accessible only by
renting a boat fro
m local
fishermen.
 Partly due to its widely publicised "Largest Underwater Wedding
Ceremony" which earns it an entry in the Guinness Book of Records,
Koh Kradan is now one of
the best known islands, with floury pure white sand beaches, sparklingly
clear waters, and a lush forested interior. Trang is a prime destination
for diving, and the innovative 'weddings underwater' first launched
in 1997, is now an annual Valentine's Day event which attracts more people
every year, who sign marine marital commitments in Scuba gear at a depth
of 12 metres. All prospective newly-weds holding an international divers
license may participate - details can be had from TAT or Thai Airways, who
enthusiastically sponsor this event. Schools of dolphins are often seen
around Koh Kradan, and the area is host to many differ
ent species of
plant, marine and bird life.
 One of the most unforgettable sights amongst the islands is the 'beach
at the end of the cave ' located on Koh Muk. This spectacular result of
wind
and water erosion is accessible only at low
tide, when small boats (or brave swimmers) can enter the concealed and
dark tunnel from the open sea for a 80-metre journey under the rock face.
This opens out into a veritable wonderland - an intense emerald green
lagoon fringed by pure white sand, and framed against the sky by tall
limestone cliffs. Such a magical place is best appreciated by arranging a
private tour with no time limits imposed. If you can, (according to tides)
choose early morning or at dusk, when you can enjoy the experience with
nobody else around. Nature lovers and ornithologists will enjoy visiting
Koh Libong, Trang's largest island, which is home to a
large variety of migratory and resident birds, and a protected area for
the Dugong, although sightings of this shy creature are rare. The large
lovable mammal relies on seagrass beds as its only source of food, and
prior to education and conservation efforts, it was hunted relentlessly,
the tusk being prized as a protective amulet, and the eye secretions
('tears') considered a love potion. Koh Sukon (also known
as Koh Moo) and Koh Ngai (also known as Koh Hai) are less visited islands,
and offer lovely beaches lapped by clear water, ideal for swimming or
snorkelling.
Caves and Waterfalls
The limestone rocks and generous monsoon rainfall make Trang a
veritable paradise for these natural wonders. Some of the caves have been
made accessible for visitors with ladders and lighting, but many others
remain relatively unknown, unexplored, and a challenge for professional
speleologists. For ordinary visitors, an organised tour with a qualified
guide is the best way to experience the caves, (known as
Tham in Thai.)
Amongst the scores of others, some of the best known are Tham
Kao Pina and Tham Phra Phut, with their revered
Buddha images; Tham Tra (seal cave) with mysterious
unexplained seals carved into the walls; Tham Lae,
accessible through a small opening by boat, and leading into huge chambers
of stalactites and stalagmites, and Tham Khao Chang Hai,
with its cavernous chambers. The most impressive is Tham
Lod, which is accessed by small canoe through a tiny
head-lowering entrance, and followed by a long (10 minutes approx.) paddle
in total darkness, until you emerge into a spectacular lagoon lined by
mangroves, tumbling streams, and enclosed by majestic limestone walls.
Like the caves, Trang's waterfalls are most easily
visited by booking an organised tour, and in the same fashion, offer an
almost endless variety of forms, shapes, and dramatic effect, particularly
during the rainy season, roughly from June to October. Just some of the
locations well worth including on your itinerary are the Chao
Pra falls with their multiple levels divided by lovely pools,
Sai Rung (Rainbow) falls whose cascading spray transforms
the slanting sunlight into bright primary colours, Prai
Sawan with its rocky cascade terminating in a lovely natural
swimming pool at its base, and the spectacular Ton Tae,
which casts its waters crashing downwards from a height of 300 metres.
Less visited, but no less lovely are the Roi Chan Pan
Wang falls (translating as 'one hundred levels-one thousand
palaces') with their multiple cascades and rocky pools set in a
delightfully tree-shaded area.
Entertainment & Shopping
Rather refreshingly, there is little in the way of 'international'
entertainment outside the hotels, and what there is tends to centre around
pubs and karaoke bars which offer friendly venues for visitors. Attending
a bloodless local bullfight, far removed from the bloody Spanish variety
and usually held once a month, offers a glimpse of Trang citizens at play.
The eager spectators, enlivened by placing their bets, usually provide
more excitement than the placid beasts, who tend to lock horns and stay
that way for unacceptably long periods. Worth watching out for are local
presentations of typical southern Thai entertainment such as the graceful
Manora or Nora dance performances,
Nang Thalung (shadow puppet play) and Likae
Pa (song and dance drama)
The abundance of bai toey (pandanus leaves) makes
Trang an excellent source of items woven from this durable plant,
particularly mats, which make useful items in any household, large or
small. The province is also well known for cotton weaving, and there are
some lovely patterns available which are unique to this part of Thailand.
Other locally made products include woodcarvings, basketry, rubberwood
toys, and attractive woven clothes.
Events
 Local festivals include the famous Chinese Vegetarian
Festival normally held in October every year on a full-moon
night. This provides colourful processions, celebrations and remarkable
physical feats of endurance by ascetics, including body piercing, and
self-flagellation. The August Cake Festival reflects
Trang's reputation for making delicious cakes. The tasty confections come
in a variety of flavours - including coffee, orange, pandanus, banana, and
taro, or in delicious 'deluxe' three-flavored combinations. The Trang
Roast Pork Festival is held every September, and features
crispy roast pork made with a special recipe, which includes a marinade of
aromatic herbs. The Ta Phao Shell Festival is aimed at
promoting the conservation of nature, and is held at Pak Meng Beach every
November. Other annual events include the Trang Products
Fair in April, which combines culture, traditions, and local
products with various colourful contests, and pageants. Another major
celebration takes place on H.M. the King's Birthday with the Red
Cross Fair, held during 5-15 December every year, providing good
entertainment, shows, and excellent shopping opportunities.
Conclusion
Whether you are a tentative first-timer, or an old hand with a long
term affection for the Land of Smiles through repeated visits, Trang
province is a most desirable holiday destination. Prosperous in its own
right through rubber and commerce, it is not dependent on tourism, nor is
it racing to promote it. Large areas of protected National Parks will
limit expansion, and protect the natural tourism assets. At this time, it
remains relatively little known, little visited and largely unspoiled.
The 'best' time to visit is outside the monsoon, roughly between
November and April, but the rainy season tends to consist of long periods
of sunshine, with short sharp downpours that do little to detract from the
overall enjoyment. Hotel rates and services are generally cheaper at this
time of year, which is an added incentive. Many visitors are content to
enjoy the wide selection of beaches, or the seclusion of the islands.
Others delight in exploring the interior, and for the more adventurous, a
hire car is an ideal way to appreciate the plethora of lovely landscapes.
The most desirable way is to combine the two, and treat yourself to a
mixture of stimulating sightseeing and total relaxation.
The Amari Trang
Resort and Spa, the province's first
international class hotel, will open on Chang Lang Beach in 2003, and
provide uncompromising excellence in comfort, food, and facilities. It
will also devote itself to assisting interested guests in the discovery of
the province, with professional advice and facilities for sightseeing,
special interest tours, and sporting activities.
For visitors who also wish to enjoy the attractions of a more developed
resort, it is worth remembering that Phuket is a short 30 minute flight
away, and a two centre Trang/Phuket holiday combining the Amari Coral
beach Hotel on Patong, is an attractive option.
Southern Thailand is quite different to other areas of the country - in
customs, food, language, traditions, and culture. The one thing it has in
common is the natural friendliness and welcome that is so willingly
extended to foreigners.
As somebody once said:
"If natural hospitality could be measured by music,
Thailand would play the sweetest symphonies of all"
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